Btw, where is the setup guide for the SD CARD that goes into the NAND-AID?

Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 06:52 PMBtw, where is the setup guide for the SD CARD that goes into the NAND-AID?

There isn't one, simply because there is no setup for it. Install it in the NAND-AID and then go to Backup and Restore and select Erase MLC and Delete scfm.img. Then its on to rebuilding the MLC as the guide instructs.

Any I removing the circled black bit to get to the ground pads?

Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 07:46 PMAny I removing the circled black bit to get to the ground pads?

Yes you have to remove that. Some consoles have it and some don't. I have yet to see a console with it on the board.

Which NAND-AID are you installing? I am asking because if its not the one I show in my video/guide there will be some differences on installation.

Ok, what is the safe way to remove it? Tweezers or heat?


(first time for everything right?)

Easiest to remove using hot tweezers, if you do not have a pair of those you can use a soldering iron and some solder wick to remove that component. Push the wick up against the solder joint and let it suck the solder out. Then do the other side. It should come off without any force and you should make sure you don't try to use force because that usually ends with ripping pads off the board and then you could be in a world of trouble.

Update....still haven't got it off

Are you using solder wick? Also what temperature is your soldering iron? I am making the assumption that you do not have hot tweezers

Yep, it's just getting stuck to the board though

No hot tweezers, solder at 350


(This was supposed to be the easy part cause it's just technical stuff)

350C I presume, so roughly 662F. Does the solder melt on that component quickly like in a couple seconds? If it doesn't turn your temperature up to 375C.

Some more tips:
Add some flux to it and see if you can get it to flow better. If that doesn't work add some fresh solder to it and mix it around. Then try the solder wick again.

A tip on the solder wick, don't drag it around on the PCB. It will damage it. All you should have to do is place the solder wick on the solder, then put the soldering iron on top of the solder wick, as the solder melts push down and it should wick it right up.

Don't be afraid to increase your soldering iron temperature. The more components (let me clarify this, what I mean is if you are using solder wick to wick up solder, the wick is also going to absorb heat. If your soldering iron is set too low there will not be enough heat transfer to melt the solder and get it to wick up the solder wick.) you have the more heat is absorbed and the less there is to melt the solder. When I work on the Wii U consoles I set my soldering iron to 400C   

Put it up to 375 and that still didn't solve it so I'll try 400 tomorrow, about time to wrap of this failure tonight. Thanks again though

Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 09:13 PMPut it up to 375 and that still didn't solve it so I'll try 400 tomorrow, about time to wrap of this failure tonight. Thanks again though

You haven't failed. Everything you have done up to this point to repair your Wii U has been a valuable learning experience.

It seems like this is your first time soldering or you have only alittle experience with it. So I think you should cut yourself some slack and be more patient with yourself.

Soldering isn't difficult to do it, but it can be DIFFICULT to master. You'll get there in time, don't give up.

Stiiiiill there

Can't find a single video that demonstrates how to remove these things.

Try this, melt the solder on the one side, PUT ALOT OF FLUX on the solder joint. Use tweezers to pull up on the side you are melting the solder. It should move up slightly. Then do the same thing on the opposite side.

It should move up a bit further than the first side. Now return to the first side and do it again.

It might take 3-4 times but it should move the component up and away from the board and eventually you should be able to lift it away from the solder on the board and it will come off.

I would make a video, but I do not have a Wii U console with this type of capacitor on it currently. All the ones I am working on are models where Nintendo dropped it from the design. FYI its called a decoupling capacitor.

I'll do my best to retry tomorrow but I gotta prep for the incoming storm so might have to wait for the weekend