(https://64.media.tumblr.com/0a1e222a0e79d54665927641665d61de/e9fcb6616c7317fb-11/s2048x3072/d4a83deccd1597ae8b2f99b7d52448ba2fe0691f.jpg)
I finally got through the MLC and SLC dump, but once I go to the boot1 option, I get this error. (I also did the other dumps and syslogs beforehand too)
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 18, 2024, 04:46 PMI finally got through the MLC and SLC dump, but once I go to the boot1 option, I get this error. (I also did the other dumps and syslogs beforehand too)
Boot1.img must be placed in the root directory of the SD Card. Please make sure it is located there. Additionally make sure it is named "boot1.img". It should look like this:
sdcarddirectory.png
If you do have it in the correct place and it is named properly, please try downloading boot1.img again, it could be corrupt.
Also I looked at your mlc checker log. You have a ton of 30041 errors, so definitely a bad eMMC in that Wii U.
For reference:
-30041 is MEDIA ERROR
-3001B is DATA CORRUPTION ERROR
Do I only need the boot1.img or so I need all those items?
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 18, 2024, 09:25 PMDo I only need the boot1.img or so I need all those items?
If you are looking to install ISFShax using UDPIH + Recovery Menu, you need the following files on the SD Card...
These files are in the root directory:
-boot1.img
-fw.img
-ios.img
-recovery_menu
-superblock.img
-superblock.img.sha
-wiiu (Folder all lowercase) inside the folder you need the below files:
-ios_plugins
-wafel_core.ipx
-wafel_isfshax_patch.ipx
Just in case you missed the guide written by SDIO here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-set-up-isfshax.642258/). I recommend looking at it, especially because the guide was updated and I do not know what files you have. I recommend grabbing the latest release files from the guide.
The one thing I will point out and is probably the most confusing for individuals are the steps listed under "preparing the SD Card" section of the guide. You can ignore steps 5, 6, 7 as you are not using these methods to install ISFShax. You should follow steps 1-4 & 8-9 as you are using the UDPIH method to install ISFShax.
The flashed mlc.bin goes on a 2nd SD card or the one with the recovery menu on it?
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 18, 2024, 11:24 PMThe flashed mlc.bin goes on a 2nd SD card or the one with the recovery menu on it?
The mlc.bin file goes on the SD Card that will be installed in the NAND-AID. You must write it to the SD Card using Etcher, otherwise it will not be in the correct format for the Wii U to read it. I detail the steps in the restore portion of the guide here (https://www.tzirf.com/index.php?msg=116).
That being said, what are you trying to accomplish? Usually a Wii U with a bad eMMC you need to rebuild the MLC using SDIO guide (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/). Rebuilding the MLC wipes internal memory and gives you a brand new file system (meaning all data is wiped). Take it from someone (me) who has repaired a few dozen Wii U using a NAND-AID to date. Fixing corrupt data isn't fun and is definitely not for the faint of heart. The effort it takes to do this is exponentially higher than rebuilding the MLC and starting fresh.
Usually individuals wish to preserve save data. If this is something you want I recommend you rebuild the MLC and you can extract your data from the MLC DUMP using wfs-extract. You can download wfs-extract from the wfs-tools github (https://github.com/koolkdev/wfs-tools)
I'm just trying to fix my 160-0103 error code. I can't seem to find a detailed guide to do so. Everything leaves off steps or information they seem to think is common knowledge.
The error 160-0103 generally means there is data corruption. In your specific instance though I have looked at your logs and the eMMC is bad. You need to install a NAND-AID and then rebuild the MLC. Rebuilding the MLC, means you are installing a fresh copy of the firmware that runs on the Wii U.
The guide for installing a NAND-AID is here (https://www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-nand-aid-installation-guide-complete/) and includes a video showing the entire process. Rebuilding the MLC guide can be found here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/).
The steps to fix the Wii U should go as follows:
1. Install ISFShax Guide here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-set-up-isfshax.642258/)
2. Backup console: Dump SLC + MLC and DUMP OTP + SEEPROM Guide here (https://www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-slc-mlc-backup-restore-guide-complete/)
3. After dump completes power off console
4. Install NAND-AID Guide here (https://www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-nand-aid-installation-guide-complete/)
5. Rebuild MLC Guide here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/)
Where are you getting stuck?
I had used the ISFShax page (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-set-up-isfshax.642258/) to initially set up my SD card before beginning anything. I just redid all the steps to figure out why I was getting that boot error I posted before but I'm still getting it.
All I really want at this point is my save data backed up so I can start on the NAND-AID installation.
I really do appreciate your patience on this and I do appreciate community effort to fix these issues, but it's just frustrating.
With a 3rd try (and I'm defining 'try' as a SD card wipe and complete redo), the console would shut down when I selected to load boot1 payload.
On a 4th try, whereas I do not rename anything that the instructions told me to rename leave it to exactly match his folder contents, it seems the console just froze and just stays on that screen unmoving.
@RollingBox Can you create a zip file (extension .zip) of all the files required to install ISFShax you are using (that would be Wii U directory + files, fw, ios, recovery_menu, superblock,superblock.img.sha and boot 1 files) and add them to the post in your next response? I want to test and see if I can duplicate your problem on a Wii U console I have so that I can isolate what is going wrong and where.
This is the un-renamed fourth version I was attempting that would freeze the console, thanks
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 21, 2024, 02:22 PMThis is the un-renamed fourth version I was attempting that would freeze the console, thanks
Just to be sure, your SD Card is formatted as FAT32 correct? I am going to test this right now so I will post back shortly.
@RollingBox There is nothing wrong with any of your files. They are all working. So lets validate and see if the issue is just the installation procedure as it can be confusing. Please take a look at the following video it shows exactly what you should be seeing when installing ISFShax.
You said your console shuts down. After you load the boot1 payload the console should power cycle and load into the minute menu. Please refer to my video at 1 minutes and 30 seconds to see what it should be doing. That being said there is a problem with some Wii U consoles that will not display anything inside this menu so you have to do it blind. So long as the front LED is blue/purple in color things are probably working.
You will have to hit the power button 6 times, the eject button 1 times, wait 10-15 seconds.
hit eject button 3 times, then power button 1 time, then eject button 3 more times. If done correctly the console should power off. Unplug the UDPIH and power the console on, if everything worked it should show the minute menu on screen.
I have never run into a console out of 39 Wii U that didn't show the minute menu on screen, but its important to remember minute menu will only output over HDMI @ 1080P. So you cannot use AV cables for this or the gamepad.
Doing it blind, I was able to get it to shut down but I still get no display via HDMI to see the minute menu, and I have no other output or adaptor (that I know of) on hand to provide a screen display since it refuses to work on TV or PC display
(I did try different HDMI cables too)
Okay so you were able to get the console to power off after doing the blind steps, which means we can assume minute is installed.
If you remove the udpih (raspberry pi pico + usb cable) unplug the Wii U from AC Adapter, plug the AC Adapter back in and turn the Wii U on what does it display? If it displays nothing what is the LED on the front of the console doing?
Additional test: If you hit the power button 16 times and eject 1 time does the console power off? If it does that means minute is installed and functioning.
With the SD card in and Pico removed, the LED is purple and I get no display (even on the gamepad), and the power 16 + eject 1 times does in fact turn it off
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 21, 2024, 04:41 PMWith the SD card in and Pico removed, the LED is purple and I get no display (even on the gamepad), and the power 16 + eject 1 times does in fact turn it off
LED is the correct color. You will not get a display on the gamepad, this is normal. The only video output that will work inside Minute is over HDMI @ 1080P resolution. This indicates that minute menu is installed. So ISFShax is installed successfully.
If you have the backup of your data you should be all set to move forward with installing the NAND-AID and rebuilding the MLC. There is a step you can try before doing this if you prefer to work on the Wii U with video output. The reason its not displaying is likely due to data corruption of the MLC/SLC. You could attempt to rebuild the MLC inside the console. You do not need video out to do this, you need the appropriate files on your SD Card, the guide is here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/).
Keep in mind rebuilding the MLC will format the internal memory of the Wii U and wipe all data. So this is a point of no return for any data on there if you do not have a backup.
Before doing this you should make a backup of SLC and SLCCMPT. This can be done blindly from the minute menu. The blind button combo is Power Button 9 times. This will move you down to the "Backup and Restore" menu. Push eject 1 time to enter it.
Backing up SLC is power button 3 times, eject button 1 time. Give it some time to finish as its going to dump the SLC.RAW to the SD Card. Without a display you will not see progress, so I recommend setting a timer for 15 minutes and walking away.
After 15 minutes passes, come back and press the power button 1 time. This will bring you back to the "Backup and Restore" menu. Now press the power button 4 times followed by the eject button 1 time. This will start the SLCCMPT backup. Wait another 15 minutes.
Press the power button 1 time. This will bring you back to the "Backup and Restore" menu and now you want to press the eject button 1 time. This will dump the SEEPROM & OTP. This dump is much faster than the others so wait 30 seconds and then press the eject button to return to the main menu
Now power off the console (pull the AC Adapter out) and access the SD Card with a computer, you should have 5 files on the SD Card called SLC.RAW, SLCCMPT.RAW, otp.bin, seeprom.bin and seeprom_decrypted.bin. See picture below:
filesdumped.JPG
For reference so you can validate if the dumping worked, the following file sizes are what your files should approximately be:
otp.bin = 1KB
seeprom.bin = 1KB
seeprom_decrypted.bin = 1KB
SLC.RAW= 540,672KB
SLCCMPT.RAW= 540,672KB
PUT THEM IN A SAFE LOCATION. YOU DO NOT WANT TO LOSE THESE.
Just to be clear, what order do I need to go into for the options I'm selecting? From the video, it seems once an option finishes, it bounces you back to the top of the menu to start again?
>Backup and restore
>?
>Patch (sd) and boot sdmc : /ios_orig.img? (15 min wait)
>? (15 min wait)
>Interactive debug console?
I did the first step of 'Backup and restore' and attached what my folder looks like afterwards
Which video? Also is that picture something you took?
Are you trying to rebuild the MLC now? Just wanted to make sure that you did the backup of the SLC and SLCCMPT I described above before you move forward.
Edit: Okay so I see you got the SLC.RAW file, otp.bin, seeprom.bin. You still need the other files (seeprom_decrypted.bin & SLCCMPT.RAW). Although the seeprom_decrypted.bin should have dumped with the otp/seeprom files you do have.
As for the menu inside minute, when an operation completes it asks if you want to continue/exit by pressing power button. If you choose to do that it brings you back to the previous menu you were in and starts at the top of that menu.
Image is from the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCcJR9v2s-s&list=PL-GkzSuonnvfjbnOrGLoLZ-z-GSYl_FuV&index=2&ab_channel=Tzirf)you posted, hopefully the versions match with what the menu displays so I can use it as a button map. I just need to know the exact options I'm selecting
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 21, 2024, 10:10 PMImage is from the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCcJR9v2s-s&list=PL-GkzSuonnvfjbnOrGLoLZ-z-GSYl_FuV&index=2&ab_channel=Tzirf)you posted, hopefully the versions match with what the menu displays so I can use it as a button map. I just need to know the exact options I'm selecting
They will match, because I used the recovery menu/files I asked you to share to make that video.
What do you need to know how to do?
A simplified step by step guide of what options I'm tabbing down to press and how long-ish I wait for them to finish. I did the first step of backup and restore and I stopped there and shut the system down to check on the SD card to see if it in fact worked--which it did
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 21, 2024, 10:34 PMA simplified step by step guide of what options I'm tabbing down to press and how long-ish I wait for them to finish. I did the first step of backup and restore and I stopped there and shut the system down to check on the SD card to see if it in fact worked--which it did
Maybe I am misunderstanding......I provided step by step instruction in a previous post for the backups, based on your situation. As I previously stated, you are missing the SLCCMPT.RAW file. You need that at a bear minimum before we can continue. I will copy and past the instructions again. The way I wrote these instructions means you can just follow them exactly as I have written them to do all the file backups you should have before proceeding.
Since you already have the SLC.RAW you can skip that part. ALL OF THESE BACKUPS are from the minute menu, in order to get back to where you need to be all you have to do is the first step that moves you to the "Backup and Restore" menu.
QuoteThe blind button combo is Power Button 9 times. This will move you down to the "Backup and Restore" menu. Push eject 1 time to enter it.
Backing up SLC is power button 3 times, eject button 1 time. Give it some time to finish as its going to dump the SLC.RAW to the SD Card. Without a display you will not see progress, so I recommend setting a timer for 15 minutes and walking away.
After 15 minutes passes, come back and press the power button 1 time. This will bring you back to the "Backup and Restore" menu. Now press the power button 4 times followed by the eject button 1 time. This will start the SLCCMPT backup. Wait another 15 minutes.
Press the power button 1 time. This will bring you back to the "Backup and Restore" menu and now you want to press the eject button 1 time. This will dump the SEEPROM & OTP. This dump is much faster than the others so wait 30 seconds and then press the eject button to return to the main menu
Now power off the console (pull the AC Adapter out) and access the SD Card with a computer, you should have 5 files on the SD Card called SLC.RAW, SLCCMPT.RAW, otp.bin, seeprom.bin and seeprom_decrypted.bin. See picture below:
The main issue is that I'm a visual person and this is hell.
Other issue was solved by your other video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAhPVFF1qMo&ab_channel=Tzirf) that better demonstrates what the minute menu looks like and that the 'backup and recovery' provides a second menu, which I had no idea of knowing (seeing). So my mind was only working off those instructions for the first menu based on the initial button presses, thus my confusion.
And this was the kind of toddler proof instructions I was thinking of:
power 9 eject 1
power 3 eject 1 wait 15 and then hit power 1
power 4 eject 1 wait 15 and then hit power 1
eject 1 wait 30 seconds
In any case, I now have the five items needed to progress (tomorrow when I remember what tab has the next steps), thanks
I understand its hell going in blind. I am also a visual person. That being said NICE JOB! Take those files and store them on your computer in a safe location.
Now you can continue with the repair, so you have 2 options:
1. If you want to try to restore video output so you can visually navigate the menu you can attempt to rebuild the internal MLC. Keep in my mind even if this works and the Wii U console boots its only a temporary fix as the eMMC is bad and the data on it will become corrupt again.
2. Install a NAND-AID and rebuild the MLC for a permanent repair.
Regardless of which one you want to do you need to need to download the 52titles neccessary to do this. SDIO guide for this is here (https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-upgrading-rebuilding-wii-u-internal-memory-mlc.636309/) and you can go directly to the "Rebuilding the MLC" Section where step 1 is grabbing the MLCRestorerDownloader. You will need the otp.bin file you pulled from your console in this step.
I planned on going the NAND-AID route since the start of all this and have already purchased everything I'd need. I'm downloading the MLC titles at the moment
(https://64.media.tumblr.com/e24ce42b1044a6af499b85134facbc7f/173718c4ef44fdbf-9a/s1280x1920/03cb8862f0cb11ef5ed7dff7b815c266c118ea7c.pnj)
I'm wondering at what point should I flash my other SD card and start soldering (very slowly)
You won't be flashing the other SD Card as you are going to rebuild a fresh MLC, so you can install the NAND-AID and install the SD Card into it. If you choose to go this route right now you will have to do a blind install using the minute menu.
On the other hand, if you attempt to rebuild the MLC in the Wii U currently and its successful it should fix the video output problem and then you will have an easier time with the NAND-AID. Personally its the route I would take because if you run into errors with the NAND-AID without a display some of it will be nearly impossible to diagnose without using defuse, which is something I would recommend avoiding.
Based on those instructions above, I'm still confused how to proceed with rebuilding the MLC before the soldering part to install the NAND-AID
alright so lets break this down into toddler steps (as you put it).
Lets first get the 52 titles onto your SD Card, this will be the same SD card you have been using with the Recovery Menu and other files on it. You can leave all the other files on there as you still need them.
Create a folder called "wafel_install" in the root directory of your SD Card. Place all 52 titles into this folder. It is important that you do not rename any of them just to be clear. Have a look at the picture below, this is what your SD Card should look like:
The root directory has wafel_install folder:
wafelinstallfolder.JPG
Inside the wafel_install folder you should have 52 titles, like in the picture below:
52titles.JPG
Inside your /wiiu/ios_plugin folder please download and place file wafel_setup_mlc file as well.
I have all of that done. Do I plug back in the Wii U at this point and start up?
Now that your SD Card is properly setup we can go ahead and start the rebuilding of the MLC. Like I previously said this is going to wipe the internal memory of the Wii U and will start fresh. So if you don't have your backup for your save data you should make that before proceeding.
Put the SD Card back into the Wii U
Turn the console on and blind steps are this:
1. Press power button 2 times
2. Press eject button 1 time
3. You should hear the disc drive spin
4. look at power LED, if its blinking blue or orange this means its working
5. Walk away for 20 minutes
6. Check on power LED if it is solid blue or orange, that means its complete. If its still blinking wait longer
7. pull AC adapter out of console to power it off.
8. post log on your SD Card Wafel_setup_mlc.log for review
9. Remove wafel_setup_mlc.ipx from your SD Card.
10. Put SD card back in the Wii U and power on the console
11. Press power button 2 times, followed by eject button 1 time If everything works you should get the initial setup screen for the Wii U console.
LED is just remaining purple, no disc drive sounds aside from initial boot...
@RollingBox My apologies I didn't proofread what I wrote and for some reason the first step is actually the second step. No worries no harm was done. Let me correct this and you can try again. What was missing was the push power button 2 times step in order to move to the proper item in the menu. It should work now. Try it again
Yes! We have blinking blue and disc drive sounds!
wafel_setup_mlc:
OpenDir /vol/sdcard/wafel_install: 0
OpenMCP /vol/sdcard/wafel_install: 0
InstallInfo 000500101004c100: 00000000
Install 000500101004c100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500101004d100: 00000000
Install 000500101004d100: fffcffeb
InstallInfo 000500101004e100: 00000000
Install 000500101004e100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500101005a100: 00000000
Install 000500101005a100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500301001a10a: 00000000
Install 000500301001a10a: fffcffbf
InstallInfo 000500301006d10a: 00000000
Install 000500301006d10a: 00000000
InstallInfo 00050030100111ff: 00000000
Install 00050030100111ff: fffcffbf
InstallInfo 000500301001010a: 00000000
Install 000500301001010a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001110a: 00000000
Install 000500301001110a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001210a: 00000000
Install 000500301001210a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001310a: 00000000
Install 000500301001310a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001410a: 00000000
Install 000500301001410a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001510a: 00000000
Install 000500301001510a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001610a: 00000000
Install 000500301001610a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001710a: 00000000
Install 000500301001710a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001810a: 00000000
Install 000500301001810a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001910a: 00000000
Install 000500301001910a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010040100: 00000000
Install 0005001010040100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010041100: 00000000
Install 0005001010041100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010043100: 00000000
Install 0005001010043100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010044100: 00000000
Install 0005001010044100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010045100: 00000000
Install 0005001010045100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010047100: 00000000
Install 0005001010047100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010048100: 00000000
Install 0005001010048100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010049100: 00000000
Install 0005001010049100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010062100: 00000000
Install 0005001010062100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010066000: 00000000
Install 0005001010066000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010010109: 00000000
Install 0005003010010109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010011109: 00000000
Install 0005003010011109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010017109: 00000000
Install 0005003010017109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1004f000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1004f000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1005c000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1005c000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1005f000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1005f000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1006c000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1006c000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10042300: 00000000
Install 0005001b10042300: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10042400: 00000000
Install 0005001b10042400: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10050000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10050000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10051000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10051000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10052000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10052000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10053000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10053000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10054000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10054000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10056000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10056000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10057000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10057000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10058000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10058000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10059100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10059100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10063000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10063000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10065000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10065000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10067100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10067100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10068000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10068000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10069100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10069100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500101004a100: 00000000
Install 000500101004a100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500101004b100: 00000000
Install 000500101004b100: fffbf38f
Flush MLC: FFFCFFBF
SetInitialLaunch 0: 1
Flush SLC: 0
As for the restarting after removing wafel install the "press button 2 times, followed by eject button 1" did not provide any changes in LED (still purple), and no visuals. There was however some brief disc drive noises
Well given the state of your eMMC I am not entirely surprised. Doesn't look like you will be able to do this with a screen output. You need a NAND-AID. That being said once the NAND-AID is installed the process to rebuild the MLC is nearly identical, there are only a couple additional steps. So doing it blind won't be all that bad.
Just out of curiousity, if you power cycle the console and you follow the last step again: Push power button 2 times, followed by eject button 1 time does it do anything different?
Also what firmware version is on the console?
I unplugged and tried three times to the same result, my firmware is 5.5.3 U
I've been looking at several of the circuit board images and trying to take very careful note of what's getting cut and what number will connect to where
Might as well download the SLC files using the MLCRestorerDownloader and put those on your SD Card in the same directory as the 52 titles.
My full guide for the NAND-AID is here (https://www.tzirf.com/nintendo-consoles-handhelds/wii-u-nand-aid-installation-guide-complete/) and there is a video that shows everything being done. The only part you are cutting is trace R26. Which version of the NAND-AID will you be installing?
(Just checked supplies and I didn't get flux so I guess soldering is tomorrow night :'( )
I have done that before, where I went to repair a console and I was out of flux and forgot to get some. Not going to be doing any soldering work without it, that is for sure.
And I did try it again with the SLC folders in with the MLC ones to no avail. Thanks for all the help this weekend, my flux should be here before I get off work tomorrow.
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 22, 2024, 05:44 PMAnd I did try it again with the SLC folders in with the MLC ones to no avail. Thanks for all the help this weekend, my flux should be here before I get off work tomorrow.
You are welcome. No harm in trying again. I knew it was a long shot and my gut told me it was unlikely to work. The logs you provided show a very badly degraded eMMC. When you rebuild the MLC its writing data to the eMMC, that data is the firmware/OS the Wii U console uses. If the data cannot be written due to a bad eMMC than rebuilding will not work.
That's what I get in the long term for buying a console day one.
But I also had a thought, that maybe I downloaded the MLC parts wrong? I dropped the otp.bin file in the root of the MLCrestorer folder and I'm not sure if that was correct way to go about it?
But also, probably just that bad off and needs that NAND-AID. (Thanks Nintendo)
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 04:47 PMThat's what I get in the long term for buying a console day one.
But I also had a thought, that maybe I downloaded the MLC parts wrong? I dropped the otp.bin file in the root of the MLCrestorer folder and I'm not sure if that was correct way to go about it?
But also, probably just that bad off and needs that NAND-AID. (Thanks Nintendo)
Unless something has changed without the otp.bin file the downloader should not download the 52 titles and it would throw an error. Also its not just owners who purchased the console on day one. I have repaired I believe 41 of these consoles to date and several of them (I don't remember the exact number, but I am pretty sure it was 5 or so) were sold in late 2015 and had bad/failing eMMC.
Btw, where is the setup guide for the SD CARD that goes into the NAND-AID?
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 06:52 PMBtw, where is the setup guide for the SD CARD that goes into the NAND-AID?
There isn't one, simply because there is no setup for it. Install it in the NAND-AID and then go to Backup and Restore and select Erase MLC and Delete scfm.img. Then its on to rebuilding the MLC as the guide instructs.
Any I removing the circled black bit to get to the ground pads?
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 07:46 PMAny I removing the circled black bit to get to the ground pads?
Yes you have to remove that. Some consoles have it and some don't. I have yet to see a console with it on the board.
Which NAND-AID are you installing? I am asking because if its not the one I show in my video/guide there will be some differences on installation.
Ok, what is the safe way to remove it? Tweezers or heat?
(first time for everything right?)
Easiest to remove using hot tweezers, if you do not have a pair of those you can use a soldering iron and some solder wick to remove that component. Push the wick up against the solder joint and let it suck the solder out. Then do the other side. It should come off without any force and you should make sure you don't try to use force because that usually ends with ripping pads off the board and then you could be in a world of trouble.
Update....still haven't got it off
Are you using solder wick? Also what temperature is your soldering iron? I am making the assumption that you do not have hot tweezers
Yep, it's just getting stuck to the board though
No hot tweezers, solder at 350
(This was supposed to be the easy part cause it's just technical stuff)
350C I presume, so roughly 662F. Does the solder melt on that component quickly like in a couple seconds? If it doesn't turn your temperature up to 375C.
Some more tips:
Add some flux to it and see if you can get it to flow better. If that doesn't work add some fresh solder to it and mix it around. Then try the solder wick again.
A tip on the solder wick, don't drag it around on the PCB. It will damage it. All you should have to do is place the solder wick on the solder, then put the soldering iron on top of the solder wick, as the solder melts push down and it should wick it right up.
Don't be afraid to increase your soldering iron temperature. The more components (let me clarify this, what I mean is if you are using solder wick to wick up solder, the wick is also going to absorb heat. If your soldering iron is set too low there will not be enough heat transfer to melt the solder and get it to wick up the solder wick.) you have the more heat is absorbed and the less there is to melt the solder. When I work on the Wii U consoles I set my soldering iron to 400C
Put it up to 375 and that still didn't solve it so I'll try 400 tomorrow, about time to wrap of this failure tonight. Thanks again though
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 23, 2024, 09:13 PMPut it up to 375 and that still didn't solve it so I'll try 400 tomorrow, about time to wrap of this failure tonight. Thanks again though
You haven't failed. Everything you have done up to this point to repair your Wii U has been a valuable learning experience.
It seems like this is your first time soldering or you have only alittle experience with it. So I think you should cut yourself some slack and be more patient with yourself.
Soldering isn't difficult to do it, but it can be DIFFICULT to master. You'll get there in time, don't give up.
Stiiiiill there
Can't find a single video that demonstrates how to remove these things.
Try this, melt the solder on the one side, PUT ALOT OF FLUX on the solder joint. Use tweezers to pull up on the side you are melting the solder. It should move up slightly. Then do the same thing on the opposite side.
It should move up a bit further than the first side. Now return to the first side and do it again.
It might take 3-4 times but it should move the component up and away from the board and eventually you should be able to lift it away from the solder on the board and it will come off.
I would make a video, but I do not have a Wii U console with this type of capacitor on it currently. All the ones I am working on are models where Nintendo dropped it from the design. FYI its called a decoupling capacitor.
I'll do my best to retry tomorrow but I gotta prep for the incoming storm so might have to wait for the weekend ::)
@RollingBox I was working on a Wii U today and I got it disassembled and look what I found!!!
Wiidecouplingcap1.jpg
I am going to make a video showing how I remove this with a soldering iron.
Before that, I FINALLY GOT IT OFF
But good for the 1 in 100 that'll have the bastard thing
Lookin' good?
Edit:
I flattened that blob down a bit and got a few more dots on. I'm currently waiting on solder to cool down so I can switch the tips out to something smaller and be more accurate. I used a flatheaded tip that helped remove that little bastard
Nice job! I knew you could do it.
Make sure that solder for the ground point doesn't stick up too much. If it does the SD-Card Slot will not fit in place as the solder will be too high. You want it just barely above the NAND-AID
I'm just having trouble getting the NAND-AID to stick to the board before I get to the SD slot
Edit:
Got it! Now to see if it's all flat enough for SD slot...
It's....something
The 6 data connection points don't appear to line up with the resistors that they need to be soldered to. They should have been soldered before soldering the SD Card Slot to the NAND-AID. This ensures the NAND-AID is aligned correctly and can be soldered to all the necessary points on the Wii U PCB
rutroh.jpg
That capacitor is a BITCH.
But gonna have to end it there, power is now flickering and hopefully I have power in the morning.
Thanks and goodnight!
Yes the capacitor can be tough. Especially since they tend to stick to the soldering iron.
The wrong picture attached--that one doesn't show my crack-ass job
As long as everything is connected correctly and it works I wouldn't worry about how it looks. Have you tested anny connections using a multimeter to verify they are soldered correctly? All connections on the NAND-AID can be tested using continuity mode.
I am curious did you perform the NAND-AID installation with the help of a microscope or magnifying glass?
Best thing I have for checking connections is for my car and I don't think that's gonna work. I'll have to slightly assemble it and try the power and see.
Yes to the magnifying glass with light, that was a worthy investment.
I also hit a 'snag'.
My black cord popped out, is that able to be soldered back in? Looks like a clean break at least...
Quote from: RollingBox on Sep 28, 2024, 10:20 AMI also hit a 'snag'.
My black cord popped out, is that able to be soldered back in? Looks like a clean break at least...
Yes its soldered to the antenna piece, which is that piece of metal. You can solder it back in place. Those metal pieces remove by pushing the plastic clip down and sliding them out.
The console can actually work without them, but it reduces the wireless range for the game pad and Wifi and is undesirable.
Unforeseen issue...my sd card is not staying in the NAND-AID, I might have to order another one if something got fried/damaged during the soldering part
Edit:
Yep, a pin came out so I'll be ordering another one. I'll be surprised if I get it right this time around and at least the board is prepped and ready
Well good luck on your 2nd attempt. A couple tips I can give that may help.
If you hold the soldering iron on the leg of the SD Card Slot too long you will melt the plastic inside and that can cause problems.
If the legs on the 4 corners of the SD Card slot are not flush with the NAND-AID the front data pins can break off when soldering them in place. The reason for this is because the pins will be 1mm+ above the NAND-AID PCB and when soldering them in place they will flex down until they contact the PCB of the NAND-AID.
You can push down on the legs when you solder them to make sure they are flush with the board. To prevent the first leg from rising up when you pull the soldering iron away you can use your finger and hold the entire SD Card Slot in place. If your finger starts to burn you know you've had your soldering iron on the SD Card Slot too long, or your iron isn't hot enough to heat up and melt the solder before heating up the SD Card slot.
I finished soldering. I put in the power ribbon to its spot and booted up. I still have no visuals but it is running. The recovery SD is in the front and the blank attached to the NAND-AID--both 32gb. (light is purple)
Quote from: RollingBox on Oct 05, 2024, 07:53 PMI finished soldering. I put in the power ribbon to its spot and booted up. I still have no visuals but it is running. The recovery SD is in the front and the blank attached to the NAND-AID--both 32gb. (light is purple)
I wouldn't expect the video out to be fixed until you rebuild the console. Assuming the issue with video output is software related as this has been our assumption all along based on earlier tests.
You can now try to rebuild the MLC blind.... the steps to do this with a NAND-AID are as follows:
Turn the console on and blind steps are this:
First Step is to erase MLC/ Delete SCFM.img
1. Press power button 9 times (This will bring you to the Backup & Restore menu)
2. Press eject button 1 time
3. Press power button 18 times
4. Press Eject button 1 time
5. Press Eject button 1 time
6. Wait 3 minutes (since we cannot see a video output we don't know if this step is going to be successful or not)
7. Press power button 1 time (this will put you back into the backup & restore menu)
8. Press power button 19 times
9. Press eject button 1 time
10. Press eject button 1 time
- This should delete the SCFM.img
11. Press power button 1 time (this will put you back into the backup & restore menu)
12. Press power button 27 times
13. Press eject button 1 time
This will put you in the minute menu where we can rebuild the MLC
You should have the SD Card in the front of the console with all 52 titles for the MLC and the SLC titles to rebuild them. I am assuming your SD card is setup correctly.
Second step is to rebuild the MLC 1. Press power button 2 times
2. Press eject button 1 time
3. You should hear the disc drive spin
4. look at power LED, if its blinking blue or orange this means its working
5. Walk away for 20 minutes
6. Check on power LED if it is solid blue or orange, that means its complete. If its still blinking wait longer
7. pull AC adapter out of console to power it off.
8. post log on your SD Card Wafel_setup_mlc.log for review
9. Remove wafel_setup_mlc.ipx from your SD Card.
10. Put SD card back in the Wii U and power on the console
11. Press power button 2 times, followed by eject button 1 time If everything works you should get the initial setup screen for the Wii U console.
Should the MLC and SLC just be in the wafel install folder or a folder in the wafel install? Following instructions, that is how I have them currently, as 57 subfolders in the wafel install folder
(Also, I didn't bother reattaching the disc drive back in yet, that's not gonna matter, right?)
Yes that is correct. They should be in the wafel_install directory.
For the rebuilding the MLC part, I'm not getting the blinking light
Edit:
Didn't we do this step before because my wafel install setup was already removed from the SD Card
OpenDir /vol/sdcard/wafel_install: 0
OpenMCP /vol/sdcard/wafel_install: 0
InstallInfo 000500101004c100: 00000000
Install 000500101004c100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500101004d100: 00000000
Install 000500101004d100: fffcffeb
InstallInfo 000500101004e100: 00000000
Install 000500101004e100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500101005a100: 00000000
Install 000500101005a100: 00000000
InstallInfo 000500301001a10a: 00000000
Install 000500301001a10a: fffcffbf
InstallInfo 000500301006d10a: 00000000
Install 000500301006d10a: 00000000
InstallInfo 00050030100111ff: 00000000
Install 00050030100111ff: fffcffbf
InstallInfo 000500301001010a: 00000000
Install 000500301001010a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001110a: 00000000
Install 000500301001110a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001210a: 00000000
Install 000500301001210a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001310a: 00000000
Install 000500301001310a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001410a: 00000000
Install 000500301001410a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001510a: 00000000
Install 000500301001510a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001610a: 00000000
Install 000500301001610a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001710a: 00000000
Install 000500301001710a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001810a: 00000000
Install 000500301001810a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500301001910a: 00000000
Install 000500301001910a: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010040100: 00000000
Install 0005001010040100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010041100: 00000000
Install 0005001010041100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010043100: 00000000
Install 0005001010043100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010044100: 00000000
Install 0005001010044100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010045100: 00000000
Install 0005001010045100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010047100: 00000000
Install 0005001010047100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010048100: 00000000
Install 0005001010048100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010049100: 00000000
Install 0005001010049100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010062100: 00000000
Install 0005001010062100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001010066000: 00000000
Install 0005001010066000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010010109: 00000000
Install 0005003010010109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010011109: 00000000
Install 0005003010011109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005003010017109: 00000000
Install 0005003010017109: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1004f000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1004f000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1005c000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1005c000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1005f000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1005f000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b1006c000: 00000000
Install 0005001b1006c000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10042300: 00000000
Install 0005001b10042300: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10042400: 00000000
Install 0005001b10042400: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10050000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10050000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10051000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10051000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10052000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10052000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10053000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10053000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10054000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10054000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10056000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10056000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10057000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10057000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10058000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10058000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10059100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10059100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10063000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10063000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10065000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10065000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10067100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10067100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10068000: 00000000
Install 0005001b10068000: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 0005001b10069100: 00000000
Install 0005001b10069100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500101004a100: 00000000
Install 000500101004a100: fffbf38f
InstallInfo 000500101004b100: 00000000
Install 000500101004b100: fffbf38f
Flush MLC: FFFCFFBF
SetInitialLaunch 0: 1
Flush SLC: 0
Yes we attempted it before but that was the eMMC not the NAND-AID. No blinking light is a problem. What is the power LED doing?
Light is staying solid purple and getting nothing (visuals) on the final step 11.
I also can't find wafel_setup_mlc.ipx among my used files for this. I only have wafel_core.ipx and wafel_isfshax_patch.ipx
Ran through it again with a located wafel install in the plug in folder and I still get no blinking light
So you turn the console on and you get a solid purple light? Does it start blue, turn orange and then become purple?
Just stays solid purple from start to end
Console needs minute menu files to start. Did you remove those files?
I am confused where you are currently sitting too, because you posted a wafel_setup log, is this an old log you had?
Also did you verify the soldering connections for the NAND-AID? Can you post a picture?
Here's the shoddy solder job
Okay so that wafel_setup log you posted must be from when we tried to get your eMMC rebuilt so you could do this with video output. Its not relevant now. You can delete it from the SD Card.
Also NAND-AID looks like it has no solder on the 6 data connections, without them it will not work. As for the rest of it I cannot tell if there are shorts or bridged pins, but any bridged pins will result in this not working.
to be clear the data connection resistors can be seen in my video here:
https://youtu.be/rvxdtk7mOCE?t=453
I might have to invest in a Multimeter
Edit:
I see what you mean about the tining part! Don't recall seeing that in the picture so I forgot that. I will do those and then try to rerun through
Yep I just need to get a multimeter and see.
Any mutltimeter that supports continuity will work. Doesn't have to be fancy
It arrived but it'll all have to wait for the weekend after we get through another storm, assuming there's power ::)
Greetings again,
Well, a lot came up and I hadn't had time to get back to the repair and I still really don't have the time to do the repair. I'm looking into local places to see if anyone will do a repair in its current state.
What would you charge if I could ship it to you and see if you have any luck with it?