Here is a video tutorial showing how to solder all the components together to make a USBValve. This video should allow anyone to follow along and make their own at home. If you do not know what a USBValve is check out the github page for it. All credit for this project goes to the original creator. 

You will need the following components to make a USBValve following this video tutorial. The components below are the same ones I used in the video.
 
USBValve Components:  
Raspberry Pi Pico
USBValve Custom PCB
Female USB A Port
128x64 4pin OLED Screen

The USBValve PCB, USB A Port & OLED Screen can be purchased on eBay. Which is where I purchased them. Raspberry Pi Pico can be purchased separately from a number of resellers online. I purchased mine from Amazon.

The tools/supplies necessary to complete this project:
Soldering iron
Microscope (Optional)
Flux
Solder
Kapton Tape


The detailed video guide can be viewed below:


If you are having trouble with some part of the guide please make a post and I will be happy to assist. 


Update:11/26/2024

I created a video showing how to flash the Firmware for the USBValve from a Windows computer. The process is nearly the same if you are using a Mac or Linux machine, but the  video only shows from a Windows 11 computer as I think the majority of people will either own or have access to one. Additionally I show some ways to use the Valve with different devices to show off the different messages displayed on the screen depending on what you plug into the USBValve. I also cover a modified keyboard that causes an interesting issue with the USBValve. I want to point out that this isn't a problem with the USBValve. This particular keyboard pulls more power than a USB port can provide and its a known issue, so the artifacts on the screen can be ignored. As I mention in the video pushing the reset button on the Pico to reset the USBvalve resolves this issue.

Disclaimer: This video is only intended for the USBValve that I built in my original video, which uses an official Raspberry Pi Pico. If you built a USBValve and used an alternative version with a different USB Port (it seems many people wanted USB C) Then this video won't necessarily pertain to you. Additionally I am not going to offer troubleshooting for these devices, its very diffiicult to try to diagnose something when a completely different component is used to build it and I do not have that component in hand. My recommendation is if you don't want to deal with issues and diagnosing them use an official Raspberry Pi Pico to build a USBvalve.

Hi!

I'm looking to give this project a try, but I'm slightly lost as it is one of the first times I'll be soldering and attempting a project like this. I am looking at the parts needed. Did you get the PCB printed? What version are you using? There is 1.1, 1.2A and 1.2B on the GitHub and I'm unsure as to what the differences are. I'm guessing it's got something to do with the USB port, as the PCB version I have has 'USB 1' written on it while yours has 'USB 2' aswell as having a hole cutout in the bottom of it. 

I'm wondering if you could help me out with that. Thank you so much!

Quote from: raph on Apr 26, 2024, 05:23 PMHi!

I'm looking to give this project a try, but I'm slightly lost as it is one of the first times I'll be soldering and attempting a project like this. I am looking at the parts needed. Did you get the PCB printed? What version are you using? There is 1.1, 1.2A and 1.2B on the GitHub and I'm unsure as to what the differences are. I'm guessing it's got something to do with the USB port, as the PCB version I have has 'USB 1' written on it while yours has 'USB 2' aswell as having a hole cutout in the bottom of it. 

I'm wondering if you could help me out with that. Thank you so much!

Greetings Raph.

I purchased the USBValve PCB from eBay. The version number is based on the type of USB port used on it. The PCB I use in the video is version 1.2A, where the A means USB A Type female. Version 1.2B means Micro USB. The only difference between the PCB is the USB port used on them. I find the USB A Female port to be most useful, as most devices use this today and if they don't they have an adapter that uses this type of port.

Heyo!

I was just wondering if you had recommendations for solder and flux. The flux needle (I don't  know what the soldering world term is, sorry) in your video looks good, is that something I could find easily? I'm basically brand new to soldering, and I am mainly doing this project as a means to learn some things about soldering, with the bonus of having a neat safety gadget upon completetion.

Thanks a ton!

Quote from: Tryrose on May 17, 2024, 01:59 AMHeyo!

I was just wondering if you had recommendations for solder and flux. The flux needle (I don't  know what the soldering world term is, sorry) in your video looks good, is that something I could find easily? I'm basically brand new to soldering, and I am mainly doing this project as a means to learn some things about soldering, with the bonus of having a neat safety gadget upon completetion.

Thanks a ton!

The flux I use is Chip Quick SMD291. It comes in a syringe making it easy to apply. You could also use the paste that requires a brush to apply, however when working with small electronic components the syringe is the best way to go. As for solder, I use Weller .5MM. Both can be purchased from Amazon, Flux here and Solder here.

Quote from: tzirf on May 17, 2024, 07:58 AMThe flux I use is Chip Quick SMD291. It comes in a syringe making it easy to apply. You could also use the paste that requires a brush to apply, however when working with small electronic components the syringe is the best way to go. As for solder, I use Weller .5MM. Both can be purchased from Amazon, Flux here and Solder here.

Thanks for the info! The only other question I forgot to ask is if there is a specific type of Female USB-A port I need, or if any off of Amazon meant for soldering would work. Thanks again!

@Tryrose

If you are following my tutorial video, you will need a USB A Female 4Pin Port. There are a couple different versions of the port: flat edge and curled edge. The one I used in the video is a Curled Edge. It means the edge on the outside of the port is curled up. That being said there is nothing wrong with using the other variation which is a Flat Edge.

Here are 2 pictures of the USB A Port I used for reference.

Update:

I created a video showing how to flash the Firmware for the USBValve from a Windows computer. The process is nearly the same if you are using a Mac or Linux machine, but the  video only shows from a Windows 11 computer as I think the majority of people will either own or have access to one. Additionally I show some ways to use the Valve with different devices to show off the different messages displayed on the screen depending on what you plug into the USBValve. I also cover a modified keyboard that causes an interesting issue with the USBValve. I want to point out that this isn't a problem with the USBValve. This particular keyboard pulls more power than a USB port can provide and its a known issue, so the artifacts on the screen can be ignored. As I mention in the video pushing the reset button on the Pico to reset the USBvalve resolves this issue.

Disclaimer: This video is only intended for the USBValve that I built in my original video, which uses an official Raspberry Pi Pico. If you built a USBValve and used an alternative version with a different USB Port (it seems many people wanted USB C) Then this video won't necessarily pertain to you. Additionally I am not going to offer troubleshooting for these devices, its very diffiicult to try to diagnose something when a completely different component is used to build it and I do not have that component in hand. My recommendation is if you don't want to deal with issues and diagnosing them use an official Raspberry Pi Pico to build a USBvalve.